I've seen a video or two on youtube of people using that Rustoleum wheel paint + clear coat, with what looks like pretty good results. They were using the "graphite" base coat though, and not a flat or satin black. I was able to find the stuff at the only Lowes location out near me, and picked up two cans..but from what you're saying, I might as well just take em back lol.
The whole preval system looks interesting, but I don't know if it's worth the trouble trying to source it out locally. I've already spent around $200 just on primer/paint/clears and whatever other materials I needed. Still is hard to believe these companies are making products that only give "good enough" results. When you think gloss clear coat, you're thinking shiny... regardless if it's sprayed over a flat paint or not.
Don't use the Rustoleum version, it'll do the same thing the DupliColor did, I've used them both in the past.
The stuff I use is Shop Line JC630 with JH6370 hardener. The hardener is a medium hard, gets a good finish within reasonable drying times. Here is the datasheet with instructions for the JC630: http://www.sautobody.com/index_htm_files/PDS-BETTER%20CLEARCOAT%20JC630.pdf Make sure you get both the clear and hardener as they come in separate containers, and follow the mixing ratio listed on the data sheet.
This is a preval: http://store.preval.com/products/preval-pro-pak which you should be able to pick up in the same place as the clear. You fill the reservoir with the clear/hardener mix and then use it like a rattle can. If you don't run out of the aerosol you can wash it out and use it again. The shop I bought mine from sells these at about $8 a pop, but the aerosol refills are about $6 each, I usually spend the extra couple dollars and just get a whole new unit, that way if I forget to clean it/don't clean it well enough I don't muck things up.
Unfortunately I don't have great photos of my trim pieces post-clear, but I can say they are way more robust, have that glassy-glossy look, and hold up to wear a heck of a lot better than anything that came in a rattle can.
This is what the wheels look like right now. They have a gloss sheen to em at certain angles depending on the lighting. Otherwise, it's satin looking. I mean it doesn't look bad, but I intended to have that high gloss look to match the car.
@MINE: Have you used this stuff by chance? I went on a bit of a wild goose chase earlier trying to find it, but wasn't able to. Haven't been able to find too much about it online as reviews go, thought maybe it would be worth a shot. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-performance-wheel-clear-coat/
To properly address this issue, more information is needed. Are both or just one fan not spinning when car is not moving? Is your cooling fluid disappearing? AC giving you warm air?
Common cooling issue is blown cylinder head gasket, that causes coolant leak and overheating, however overheating in this case happens while driving 60+ mph.
When car overheats during sitting still or in traffic jams, reason for that can be blown radiator fan fuse, burned radiator fan contact( in this case one of them will work) or problem in ETACS. For example I found case where electric window motor failure on Lancer caused ETACS to short and it stopped transferring signal to fans, thus causing such overheat situation. In those cases it had to be changed since it is really time consuming for electrician to find the cause, thus cheaper and faster to replace that. Btw ETACS is this: https://b-a.d-cd.net/8f08a58s-960.jpg If problem is in ETACS and you install new fans, they will work, but stop after couple of drives.
Of course problem could be elsewhere, however if this happened to you right after buying the car, most likely that previous owner tried to fix this issue and after giving up, sold the car. Some changed radiator, fans, thermostat etc, till came to conclusion that problem was electrical. ETACS failure is really hard to detect.
Best course of action for you would be to check if fans are working. If one is working and one is not, then check contact on non working fan. If both are not working, get code readout for electrical problems. This thread could help with diagnosis : http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/9354n-mitsubishi-lancer-gts-08-lancer-gts-neither.html
That has hardener in it* Damn auto correct on my phone.
The only trouble I had with the Duplicolor nozzles, was the base coat clogged. I did get a few drips, but was able to sand those down and just re-spray over top. Ended up having to stick a little safety pin into the nozzle hole, even though the label says NOT to do that. Three of the 4 wheels have seven days of cure time on em now, so I was thinking of purchasing some fine sandpaper (2000 grit?) to do a light wet sand on em for re-clear coating. I just don't know if it's going to worth my time, at least not with the Duplcolor clear coat...which I still have half a can of.
I'm also trying to figure out what I can do with the inside of the wheels, as I did paint those as well. However, they did turn out pretty dry/rough to the touch. Just thinking that'll it make it easy for brake dust to stick to it. Any ideas on that?
It would be nice if you could contact local mitsu dealership and ask them to confirm that your model year and earlier ones got different part number tb. Usually there is 3 options to upgrade tb. 4G69 tb , porting your oem to 63mm, since intake manifold port is the same size and there is no point of bigger one. Or getting 65mm tb from Outlander 6B31 3.0 2007+.
There is possibility of differences for later year models, but as I said before, I got similar problem to yours simply after porting stock tb and fixed it with ECU tuning. Here is video, not mine, but with the same engine behaviour I got : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NOhKQk_I5M