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  1. Yesterday
  2. My mostly stock 2009 GTS

    Good afternoon, Heres a link to the page. http://projectlancer.net/forums/topic/21737-rotm-august-2017/#comment-317252 Follow the instructions and make sure to vote after the 25th! Sincerely, Sepelio
  3. New Member

    Welcome to PL man!
  4. My mostly stock 2009 GTS

    Thanks, will do! What is ROTM?
  5. New Member

    Hey guys, just picked up a 2009 Lancer GTS with 66k on the body and 11k on the engine. Interested in learning about the cars, I diy as much as I can and pay a mechanic only if I know I'll mess up. Currently have a random LOUD exhaust kit from previous owner installed and "custom" spectre air intake parts.
  6. My mostly stock 2009 GTS

    Good evening, Welcome to PL. Make sure to introduce yourself in the new members thread and start a build page. Look forward to voting for you in ROTM! Sincerely, Sepelio
  7. Last week
  8. Removing rev limited

    Good afternoon, Thanks for the clarification. Was looking at the safest tune available. Still on the fence about who to go through. I like the idea of your custom etune but want to keep certain safety features intact. Sincerely, Sepelio
  9. Removing rev limited

    A reflash can remove any rev or speed limiters. That being said it's rather pointless as the 4b11 and 4b12 start to lose efficiency after 6800-7000RPM even with cams. We've tuned many. If this is something you really want, we can do if for you, however. http://rallinspired.supportsystem.com
  10. Removing rev limited

    Good morning, I just want it so it doesn't kill my fuel if I miss a redline. No reason to expect any power up there without stage 2-3 camshafts, increased intake manifold volume? Sincerely, Sepelio
  11. Removing rev limited

    Tbh, there is no reason to remove your rev limiter unless you are completely built. Anything above 7300 rpm you lose power due to the way the engine produces power. But if you really want to get rid of it, then get a tactrix cable, open ecu and the the definition/ROM for you car and set the Rev limiter to whatever you would like. The option will be located in the ecu options of your ROM. Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
  12. Removing rev limited

    Good morning, I know Works has a way to do it via ECU manipulation. I'd like to also remove it but, I need to do a few mods before I tune. Sincerely, Sepelio
  13. CVT Problem After Road Trip

    Okay cool, I'll try that next time it happens, thank you for the input!
  14. Removing rev limited

    How do I go about removing the rev limiter?
  15. Idle Air Control Valve Location?

    Please, Could you explain me where the ground wire is connected at the other end, the image can not be seen, I only see one side.
  16. HELP: Steering problems!?

    I have to agree, in shop, with a professional, with the car jacked up you see much more than just guessing. As I have changed litterally all suspension components on my Lancer as part of making it suited for road-track racing, I have experienced various issues - Tracking on bumps - light increase with wider 245+ tires, very heavy increase with increased negative camber and caster angles - I used to drive with -4 static camber and 4.5+ caster and it was still very doable, you just always need to hold the wheel very thight , and finally very very heavy increase with any combination of mismatching toe -in or-out, like dangerously a lot of tracking in combination with the large negative camber to the point that the car would jump a full meter to the side after hitting a puddle of water and pothole on the road. I had to do it once shortly after changing tie rods alone and then driving to the shop for alignment. - Floating feeling at higher speeds - generally something associated with soft shocks, tired springs, and worn out suspension components. Although it is quite possible that both issues are realted. I was trying out my tie rods and ball joint, none of them showed any movement while on the car. I still changed both ball joints and both tie rods, just to be sure, and the old pars were totally moving free and loose after removed. Also the old shocks when I put the coil overs were so bad, I could push them in and out with one finger. They were on less than 100 000 miles. I still think that you have to start with the height mismatch, you should not have such with stock suspension. It could be from either blown shock strut, broken spring, loose sway bar, but also from having something bent after hitting a pot hole with high speed. That one would be more hard to diagnose and cure.
  17. CVT Problem After Road Trip

    Same thing happened to me. When I switched from manual to cvt, as a habit I kept putting it in neutral at stoplights. Once I missed green light, slammed from neutral to D and at the same time hit the gas pedal. As a result got the same situation. At the next stoplight simply switched back to neutral and again to D to fix that glitch. That was 4 years back. Never had same glitch again or it causing any trouble to CVT afterwards. From what I know, after 2010, a newer version of CVT ECU were used with bigger ROM and overall more program lines present, which probably prevents that situation. Similar to glitch when sometimes check transmission error would pop on the dash for a day, after hard acceleration in fwd mode on the gravel.
  18. CVT Problem After Road Trip

    Alright PL, so I took my car on a roadtrip today. Drove a few hundred miles on the highway. However, when I got off the exit ramp, and tried to turn at the light, my car was extremely sluggish. I had my foot to the floor, and I was hardly going anywhere. as if I was barely on the throttle. It was almost kinda like the clutch wasn't fully engaged. I was wondering what would be the cause of this, and if any of you CVT guys have experienced this before. The car eventually went back to normal after a couple minutes of city driving, so I'm thinking the ECU or the CVT needed some time to adjust, perhaps? Lmk what you guys think.
  19. HELP: Steering problems!?

    Greetings all, my very first post on this forum so go easy on me please! I'm an ASE master tech, which with $2 can get me a cup of coffee nut it has also allowed me to work on a bunch of suspensions. Anyway, for starters the car in question has a 1/2" droop on the left side. The first thing to do is park on a smooth concrete surface and with a decent ruler and tape measure go under the car and start taking measurements to find where the droop is coming from. The shock absorbers are not/should not be responsible for the droop, all they are supposed to do is dampen the spring oscillations. Either springs are damaged or there is some bent metal that has not been addressed somewhere. Check the spring lengths against each other too, but take a bunch of comparative measurements and keep looking until you find where the issue is. Lastly, I would find a dedicated suspension shop and take their advice. Not to sound like a weasel but there are too many variables to diagnose over the internet, for example your description of going over bumps causing the car to decide that it wants to go left, then go right or whatever is a common symptom of excessive negative camber but without looking and measuring there is no way to determine if that one of the issues you have. I'd much rather spend my money there than at a dealership also. Anyway, good luck and keep your results posted here! GM
  20. Andy's RA

    Lol, yeah maybe $1000 in used parts and my labor. I'm not interested in doing things halfway, I'd rather put the oem components back on that were there initially. That and insurance is paying for it. The car needs as follows wheel refinished front bumper Dent removal and respray on fender new fender liner new bellypan headlight bumper unpainted from Mitsubishi is $770 fender liner is $75. Plus the cost of the belly pan, headlight, exchange of garnishing from one bumper to the other, paint work, etc. it's a lot more than a couple clips. Bumper is creased in 2 spots, bumper was torn out of the fender, as well as the fender liner and the belly pan. Cracked the headlight housing. i could honestly just leave it as is, but I'd rather have it put back to how it was. Down to the last push clip. Except with a fresh coat of paint on the bumper and no more rock chips! Also going to have the body shop do a pinch of touch up too
  21. HELP: Steering problems!?

    Yep, all bushings looked perfectly fine, no grease showing, no tears in the plastic nothing. I took another corner today and went over a man hole while cornering and it does feel like maybe it is the tires. It *feels* as if the sidewall is rolling around corners, could this be a thing? I noticed that my old tires (Bridgestone Potenzas) the sidewall was flush with the lip of the rim. and now these new tires although they are the same size by spec (falken ziex 245/40/r18) the falkens appear to have a little bit of a stretch to them. Very minor but definitely noticable from the last. Anyone have any input on this possibly? Im going to go out and take some pictures of the sag and the tires for ref.
  22. Andy's RA

    Nice man glad to hear good karma came back to you. They always say do unto others as you would want others to do unto you!
  23. HELP: Steering problems!?

    Bushings checked out okay too? Nothing loosened up, wheels have hub rings if necessary? Good luck, I hope you get the issues resolved.
  24. HELP: Steering problems!?

    I just had the car jacked up and checked the outter tie rods which looked perfectly fine, and also checked the end links. and nothing obvious was there. Going to just replace end links, and save for suspension and hope it fixes it. Just sucks a few things happened close together that make this more difficult to solve (getting new wheels and the accident) thanks again for your guys' feedback! I will keep you guys posted if i figure this thing out. after all of my googling I see there are a couple of threads for other cars that experience the same thing and dont solve the problem. or its to long after the post and they didnt update it once they did.
  25. HELP: Steering problems!?

    First I would jack the car up and scour the suspension for anything that looks to be the cause of the imbalance, then fix that part first. Coilovers are going to change the stresses on other suspension components so if an end link is bad and you drop on coils there is a greater chance of having bigger problems with that end link down the road. If it's just the shocks, cool. Install coils and enjoy the lowered ride as well.
  26. Andy's RA

    There is no way you have over $2500 in damage, try around $1000 (max). ~$20 for the fender liner if needs replacing http://www.partsgeek.com/1tsj679-mitsubishi-lancer-inner-fender.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=ac&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Mitsubishi+Inner+Fender&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac7OeP2aerXLBz3CXEWSzFx1RTkIV4HOu0nfmLlIq_PMqDtNt84zcehoCpggQAvD_BwE Front bumper shouldn't run you more than $500 if it needs replacing, perhaps up to $500 in paint. If just the clips that hold it in place broke then you can install some quick releases and be set with it. It doesn't look like those clips broke from the photo though, just the plastic nut insert that holds the bumper to the fender. A few bucks in plastic hardware and you'll be good as new
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