Angeal

Turbo-Charging Part 1

73 posts in this topic

This topic is being written to give people a better understanding as to what is required in turbo-charging the base 4b11/4b12 engines. it is meant as a brief guide toward the turbo part requirements and please take note that if you decide to go down this path, the engine and other areas will require additional upgrades also. this first part aims to look at the parts required, what each part does and the different options available for the turbo kit.

Below is a brief list of the items that i have used for my Evo x turbo set-up. I have also included links to the service manuals as their will be a small amount of other items not listed. Most of the hosing/lines/brackets are not mentioned but can be easily compiled from the manuals below.

gts service manual

http://www.filesonic.com/file/1212594484

evo x service manual

http://www.filesonic.com/file/1212331484

Optima Battery 35 Red Top 12v

Transfer of your car battery to the trunk is necessary and thanks to the lack of ventilation, your oem battery will be rendered useless due to its leak prone and explosive nature. This battery is specifically designed to take abuse, claims to have 15 times the vibration resistance and up to twice the life of ordinary batteries. it's dry cell so it won't leak or explode due to poor ventilation and is ideal for your rear trunk transfer. To be quite honest, I would not imagine your oem battery will in fact explode but it will leak. These batteries have their own specific holders, they cost from $29 up to $150.For those of you who opt to go for the smaller type batteries as recommended by many others, please take into consideration that should you have a decent upgraded audio system, your battery likely won't last.

Up to 4 meters of twin core battery relocation cable

Attempting to save money by purchasing the cheaper option from Hong Kong may result in your car burning to the ground. This stuff is expensive but necessary. 150ampbreaker or fuse to be used at the engine bay joining's. Run through the firewall only. original lugs to be transferred to the trunk end of cable or upgrades bought for replacement.

TD05H Turbo/waste-gate/actuator/inlet elbow

This is the oem turbo charger used for the EVO X setup. Should you decide to purchase this item second hand, expect to receive all four together for $450-$600. Any less and it is probably being sold due to shaft play issues, any more any you're paying too much for items that are used. Also take note that the appropriate brackets aside from the actuator restraint will usually not be included, however these are not essential.

The actuator:

I would like to make a note here that this usually overlooked and very much missunderstood simple yet complex device happens to, upon slight modification, be one of the keys to successfully enableinghigher boost to the cvt. It is by default set to around 11psi and can directly and reliably be lowered via a few different methods which will be discussed in more depth in part 2

Stud KitM10x1.25 mm TD05h

These are only necessary if, like me, you do not receive any studs with your turbo. They will attach your waste gate to your o2housing and your exhaust manifold. They can be purchased through eBay for $13and includes 5 studs. If you received no studs with your turbo, multiple kits are required.

EVO X Intake Manifold

The primary function of the intake manifold is to evenly distribute the combustion mixture to each intake port in the cylinder head. The intake manifold can be bought used for around $200. This item will have to be cleaned

Evo x ATP High Flow Compressor Outlet Pipe

High flow compressor outlet pipe, Contoured machined outlet flange for smooth flow and O-ring flange face eliminates leaks and the 2 bolt gasket for proper seal. Black powder coat tapers from stock 1.75" diameter to 2.5" which is useful as allot of aftermarket upper ic pipes will attach to this size. it also comes with the 2 bolts required which is a bonus. Also. the cost is $95 and is an alternative to the oem model and claims to have increased the overall discharge area by 100%

EVO X INJEN SHORT RAM INTAKE

Your oem intake will have to be replaced with that of your selected turbo application. I have chosen the injen short ram intake. The gains over the evo x oem intake box setup are: HP Gain: +28.2 Torque Gain:+23.6. Injen Part # SP1899P. this package comes with upper ic piping and all necessary attachments, so for under$400 it is an excellent option. This intake will replace all the oem counter-parts all the way back to the air inlet fitting and contains all required couplings/joiners

Evo x map sensor and Evo x maf sensor

MAP stands for: Manifold absolute pressure sensor attaches to the intake manifold. MAF stands for Mass air flow sensor attaches to the short ram intake and is built specifically for handling the pressure of turbo application.

Evo X Megan Racing Turbo Outlet (o2 housing)

The turbo outlet acts as a bridge connection from the waste-gate to the down-pipe and also acts as an anchor point for optional stability. Adding different aftermarket turbo outlets will claim to minimize restriction of the exhaust flow and allow for a slightly quicker turbo spool. These gains will not be noticeable and this item really only serves as a better looking alternative to the oem counterpart. This item is often sold as a package with the turbo manifold for a reduced price to what you would pay individually. I have chosen this item purely for its cosmetic attributes and I would recommend the oem counterpart for the cvt turbo application directly based upon its more restrictive design.

Evo X Megan Racing Turbo Manifold

This item acts as a bridge connection between the waste-gate and the cylinder head and is again an alternate choice to its ugly oem counterpart. Turbocharging at this level will not really bring out this items full potential, though this item along with the o2 housing cost me just over$400 so all and all I am not complaining. Taking into consideration this item is cheaper, better looking and will outlast the oem manifold, I recommend it. Better flow will lead to slightly better performance but at 11psi you won't really notice the difference. If you opt to go for a second hand oem manifold, this is one object that will be particularly hard to clean in preparation.

Evo X MISHIMOTO Intercooler (BLACK)

Mishimoto has earned itself an excellent reputation for providing a balance between excellent reliability/performance at realistic prices. This intercooler is over kill for 5-11psi 4b11application and thus the reason I have opted for the unique more attractive and less noticeable black one. They also come in the plain aluminum which would be the choice if we were to be pressing 20+psi or turbo charging the 4b12. this is a direct replacement for the oem intercooler and you will need the appropriate welding joints in order to secure it. The intercooler itself provides superior cooling to its oem counterpart and is a necessary upgrade for those who are aiming for overall lower temps.

The specs for this item are as follows:

Overall Size: 31.7" x 14.5" x 3.45"

Core size: 20.0" x 11.5" x 3.0"

Inlet/Outlet: 2.5"

Fin Pitch: 9.8 Fins/Inch

Tank Wall Thickness: 2.5mm

EVO X OEM Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Assembly

These aid in the delivery of extra load of fuel required for the evo x setup and are a necessary swap. Either, the evo x oem fuel pump or the walbro aftermarket choice is available. There are 2 choices with certain fuel points at opposite ends if you choose to go for the walbro pump so be sure to make the correct selection to save yourself the headache of making the wrong one fit. All appropriate lines are to be replaced as new

EVO X 560cc Fuel Injectors X 4

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Electronic Fuel Injection uses computer-controlled fuel injectors to spray fuel into the engine. Oem replacements 560cc at 11psi and no more or you are going to have problems. If you chose to purchase these second hand, be sure to clean and test them accordingly. Se the above link for appropriate ratios for lower boost application.

EVO X OEM Throttle Body

Attaches directly to the intake manifold. The purpose of this item is self-explanatory and it should cost you between $250-$300. This will almost definitely have to be bought second hand and it won't come with the necessary bolts and Mitsubishi won't sell them to you. The bolts were hard to find. they put my whole first turbo application on hold for a month as I had to import them from Japan. Put these bolts on your first to do list. I have heard of others opting for different throttle bodies and saving money in the process, this is not the option I am going for due to the fact that the evo x bore increase alone is a particularly bad idea for the cvt application.

EVO X Fuel Rail & Regulator

Located atop the injectors, the fuel rail and regulator area fundamental part of the fuel delivery system. I initially had both an out of shape second hand set received for under $20 and an attractive aftermarket set that I paid over $100 for. The aftermarket set leaked along with other issues within days. The out of shape second hand set remains on my car to this day 12months later. It is the focal point for ugliness on my engine though I'll have to say they built it to take a beating. Slight modification is required for the fuel delivery system which will be covered in part 2

EVO X HKS SSQV3 BLOW OFF VALVE KIT

The blow off valve is designed to prevent large pressure spikes in the intake pipes when the throttle plate is closed while boosting, preventing the turbo from surging. These are located depending on your setup and are easily concealable. This particular type is illegal in many places such as Melbourne Australia, the speed and red light camera tax collection capitol of the world. However with the cvt you can now stick it to the man and and say f**c the police as you have have almost total control of the vent to atmosphere sound and can drive quietly past any law enforcement officer you may encounter. With manual application, you shall have to check your local laws before deciding the right bov for your application.

EVO X ECU

If you don't do this yourself and your tuner tells you that the nature of your tune is that it has to be totally customized and done from scratch using a blank aftermarket ecu and that will take up to or over 30hrs, you're getting totally f**ked. I also recommend you be present during the whole testing process. You will know within a few minutes whether they know their stuff or weather they're learning as they go. If you have a cvt in particular, be sure of this or you WILL be sorry. If they won't let you watch take your business elsewhere, it's YOUR money.

EVO X Mishimoto X LINE Radiator and liquid chill additive

This is an essential upgrade for all cvt and 4b12applications where higher temps are an issue. If you're not willing to pay this much then don't expect high boost. Put side to side, you will see the size difference between the oem and the x-line. This thing is big and almost a direct replacement for the oem you currently have. Expect lower, more stable temps.

EVO X SSP Front Mount Oil Cooler

Cvt Transmission and engine coolers are a must when any level of boost is being applied. There are many options and the prices vary depending on your expectations. Many problems may arise depending on you cars year/model . certain cvt models do not come with proper connection points for an additional trans cooler and you will be required to acquire the oem cooler/heater from a gts model. None of the n/a lancer models come equipped with an engine oil cooler as the evo x does so you will be required to get minor custom work at the time of installing an oil return line for the waste-gate in order to make this work. These will be discussed further in part 2.

Evo X Gaskets

These are items that you do not want oem. These often looked over small additions provide an excellent opportunity to noticeably reduce heat levels. I have chosen to apply the slightly more expensive thermal gaskets almost all round. They can be purchased as a kit or sold separately. Refer to the above linked service manual for their locations.

Gauges/wideband

http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges-26/

These are essential in maintaining complete control of all the necessary aspects of your car. You can never have too many of these. These will need to properly maintained and checked on a monthly basis but their readings are likely to save you engine/trans on the day that something goes wrong. It is absolutely essential for cvt owners to have one reading their trans oil temps. Aem is a trusted provider for your gauge/wideband needs. A wide range of these are available to view from the link above and more on this topic will be discussed in part 3

Turbo Oil Water LinesTDO5H

These can be bought in kits that contain almost all necessary components required. They sell for about $50 and come with most of the connection pieces you will need. Some custom lines are going to have to be made throughout this whole process which is simply a matter of buying a few extra feet of the appropriate braided steel line and attaching it where required with the appropriate ends.

Intercooler piping

These items require appropriate research. Many parts of your setup will ultimately be a result as to which pipes will fit. For example, if you intend on mounting your bov on the upper ic pipe, you will have to get an upper ic pipe with appropriate attachments and as result of doing this, your factory lower ic pipe will have to be replaced. If you opt to get the injen kit that I have gone for, you will have to purchase the small pipe that curves down to your intercooler. Custom made piping is often the cheaper option.

Spark plugs

NGK 2 levels below oem. Really no need to go in depth here, spark plugs will be the least of your worries as they are the easiest mod you will need

Evo x downpipe

There are 2 choices here. The first and cheaper of the 2 options is to get the evo x downpipe adjusted to fit your current set-up. Secondly, you may choose to upgrade your whole exhaust system to that of an evo x set-up of your choice which requires welding the appropriate mounting points. i do not recommend using your oem exhaust at high boost but the choice is yours.

9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps : i relocated my oem battery to where my old air box was , no need to relocate to trunk at all just remove the airbox metal frame and cut the lil metal studs and thats it , save 200$ for the relocation kit

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps 2 : u forgot to tel the guys that if they go with the evo x oem ecu they will also need the keys or the car wont star for ishhh , junkyards might sell u the ecu without the key watch out for that guys

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps3 : evox fuel pump + fuel rail not needed for boost with oem internals (like 11 psi for 4b11 and 7 psi for 4b12) is a nice add but doesnt make a difference. also the megan racing evox exhaust manifold has weak welding a lot of evo x guys are having issues with them breaking at high boost , again not really a big help for the lil boost we can make BESIDES ALL THIS GOOD TREAD IS COOL TO SEE GUYS TRYING TO HELP ALWAYS

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps : i relocated my oem battery to where my old air box was , no need to relocate to trunk at all just remove the airbox metal frame and cut the lil metal studs and thats it , save 200$ for the relocation kit

as you can see in the link below, relocation of the battery is actually necessary even with removal of the frame. and do not remove the frame if you want to ensure lower overall temps which are essential. relocation of the battery will increase air flow and help reduce temps also and costed me around $100.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps 2 : u forgot to tel the guys that if they go with the evo x oem ecu they will also need the keys or the car wont star for ishhh , junkyards might sell u the ecu without the key watch out for that guys

Mitsubishi uses software called MUT-III to reprogram the ECU to match the immobilizer of the vehicle. This process is called coding and it only reprograms the ECU and not the key. i have the MUT-III and all accompanying software. As this is PART 1 gathering the parts, i did not think it necessary to upload MUT-III and other accompanying software. Also, if you want to risk trying to run that much fuel through your stock fuel system, that is fine. these posts are being written with the intent of running boost as safely as possible with minimal risks.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps3 : evox fuel pump + fuel rail not needed for boost with oem internals (like 11 psi for 4b11 and 7 psi for 4b12) is a nice add but doesnt make a difference. also the megan racing evox exhaust manifold has weak welding a lot of evo x guys are having issues with them breaking at high boost , again not really a big help for the lil boost we can make BESIDES ALL THIS GOOD TREAD IS COOL TO SEE GUYS TRYING TO HELP ALWAYS

furthermore please take note of the first few lines of this thread. boosting at 11psi WILL require upgraded internals if you intend on running it safely. this thread is a guide for the turbo kit requirements only and attachments that aid in the cooling process.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome right up bro...Ty for taking the time to do so!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and im not saying you need to go out and buy the MUT-III like i have done, just get your tune at a shop that has one.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the 4b11 u can run 11 psi safely now 4b12 no more than 7 with stock internals

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you call putting higher than evo x pressure on your stock un-forged pistons safe then good luck with that. stop spamming my thread.

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank you so much for this thread angeal... and what ur saying is so true... i will def be sharing this with my friends who wanna turbo there lancer

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will be installing a turbo in my 08 GTS (manual) in a few months. Getting from a Ralliart. What exhaust should I get? I saw that you said to get the downpipe, but should I got 3" all the way back, or just get a Cat-Back system from ACI (ex: Magnaflow Cat-Back is 2.25")? Should I stick with single-port or switch to dual exhaust?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the only real reason i upgraded my exhaust was due to the fact that i also upgraded to an evo x non wide-body rear bumper and my old cat did not fit. anything better flowing than the oem one is all that should be required. unless your planning on pushing over 11psi, your not going to be getting any gains that cant be gotten by altering the tune and appropriate related parts you will already have. having said this, choose a less restrictive one that you like the look and sound of. aside from being less restrictive to the air flow, the sound and look are gonna be all you end up getting out of it

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

glad this is pinned know its old but now gonna start moving intto it

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never saw this write up. Good ish!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never saw this write up. Good ish!

yup theres no part 2 that i can find or part 3 but this i s a very good start and i will be doing this

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe a dumb question but im new to my lancer as well as new to this forum or any kind of engine mods. i notice alot about evo x but is it the same for a GTS

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe a dumb question but im new to my lancer as well as new to this forum or any kind of engine mods. i notice alot about evo x but is it the same for a GTS

Any performance parts for a Evo almost never work for a Lancer,

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any performance parts for a Evo almost never work for a Lancer,

Thats what i figured, in that case are there any threads on turboing a GTS?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats what i figured, in that case are there any threads on turboing a GTS?

search bar
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Angeal, I've been debating what direction to take for a while when it comes to boosting. From everything I've read and what's available on the market, if I stick with my CVT tranny I can only go 7psi with stock internals. RRM now has this turbo kit which will only gain 40%hp for the CVT, which is one option I can go but that's expensive for only 40% gain.

My other option, I am considering finding a junked gts or shop around to find a standard tranny and all its linkage to do a tranny swap. From what I understand I would be able to handle more psi doing this.

Either way, I figure my tranny is the limiting factor in which direction I go. In my opinion, swapping my tranny is the way to go so I can get the most out of my money for boost. I do eventually want to change rods so I can push more psi, but will my transmission again be the limiting factor even with a manual? I've read on other blogs that traction with that much power and torque becomes an issue with FWD on the gts.

Thanks for anyone's help and appreciate all the effort put in this post.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Angeal, I've been debating what direction to take for a while when it comes to boosting. From everything I've read and what's available on the market, if I stick with my CVT tranny I can only go 7psi with stock internals. RRM now has this turbo kit which will only gain 40%hp for the CVT, which is one option I can go but that's expensive for only 40% gain.

My other option, I am considering finding a junked gts or shop around to find a standard tranny and all its linkage to do a tranny swap. From what I understand I would be able to handle more psi doing this.

Either way, I figure my tranny is the limiting factor in which direction I go. In my opinion, swapping my tranny is the way to go so I can get the most out of my money for boost. I do eventually want to change rods so I can push more psi, but will my transmission again be the limiting factor even with a manual? I've read on other blogs that traction with that much power and torque becomes an issue with FWD on the gts.

Thanks for anyone's help and appreciate all the effort put in this post.

Sadly I don't think Angeal will be responding to you but I can answer a few of your questions.

Concerning the Transmission: Yes a transmission swap would be your best bet. The CVT doesn't react well to boost and because of that most people avoid boosting them all together. If you are going to go boost it's recommended you use a manual. You can do it with a CVT but I wouldn't. My opinion there.

Concerning the Engine & Tranny Limits: Our very own Rolly hit 247 WHP! Without a from differential I'd say it's hard to control. You can't just go about laying the power down and the mere stress you put upon the engine and drivetrain begins to limit you. Honestly even with the stock 5 Speed I wouldn't take it past 275WHP simply because after that Front Wheel Drive cars become hard to control. You get torque steel, wheel slip, and of course without an LSD Wheel Spin which will essentially make all of your power building worthless.

My advice to you: If you plan to boost it, be sure to get a LSD so that you can put the power down. You'll need nice wide wheels and good tires to make sure everything is managed in order to balance the power with how the car handles.

Forged Internals: We can simply use the Evolution's internals as far as I know. I may be wrong. Double check that.

The transmission will detonate and blow up at some point. I'd look into using a Evo X 5 speed but I can't say whether or not it fits.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sadly I don't think Angeal will be responding to you but I can answer a few of your questions.

Concerning the Transmission: Yes a transmission swap would be your best bet. The CVT doesn't react well to boost and because of that most people avoid boosting them all together. If you are going to go boost it's recommended you use a manual. You can do it with a CVT but I wouldn't. My opinion there.

Concerning the Engine & Tranny Limits: Our very own Rolly hit 247 WHP! Without a from differential I'd say it's hard to control. You can't just go about laying the power down and the mere stress you put upon the engine and drivetrain begins to limit you. Honestly even with the stock 5 Speed I wouldn't take it past 275WHP simply because after that Front Wheel Drive cars become hard to control. You get torque steel, wheel slip, and of course without an LSD Wheel Spin which will essentially make all of your power building worthless.

My advice to you: If you plan to boost it, be sure to get a LSD so that you can put the power down. You'll need nice wide wheels and good tires to make sure everything is managed in order to balance the power with how the car handles.

Forged Internals: We can simply use the Evolution's internals as far as I know. I may be wrong. Double check that.

The transmission will detonate and blow up at some point. I'd look into using a Evo X 5 speed but I can't say whether or not it fits.

Thanks bud for the input. Others can take from this to but I just talked to Road Race Motorsports who have the turbo kit for both the CVT and manual transmissions. Its actually the same kit and completely compatible with both trans. From what they told me, not sure if this is true, even though the hp% increase is lower for the CVT the fact that the car is constantly "in boost" its faster than a manual transmission. Now if that's decided by the driver, I have no idea. The turbo kit though is completely interchangeable regardless of trans, so for those who are curious or want to experience both might be a good idea to buy it for the CVT, try it and if you don't like it, swap out the trans. Think that's gonna be my plan of action unless this performance shop I'm about to visit convinces me otherwise :)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now