T-Flash

Cvt Turbo... Diy!

70 posts in this topic

Now, oil feed and return lines....

You will need:

-an8 braided line (if using evo x TD05 turbo, replace all an8 item with an10)

-2 x an8 braided hose end, 90 degree works good..

-an4 braided line

-2 x an4 braided hose end, 90 degree works good

-an4 female to 3/8 npt female adapter (it is most likely metric, M20 maybe...) its fits fine, but don't force it in. with teflon tape, when its snug, it doesn't leak, but it wont go completely in.

-teflon tape on each ends

Install:

1-Remove 3/8 plug under the PCV valve. Be careful, some are hard to take out, don't strip the hex fitting or you'll be stuck and have to get your oil from the sandwich plate...(not the best option...the p[late as been used for the engine oil cooler....You'll have to remove the oil cooler or experiment...lol)

2-Put your an4 to 3/8 npt adapter in with the an4 hose adapter...don't forget the teflon.

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3- Bring the other end around and plug it to your an4 oil feed adapter on your turbo....teflon...

4- Take your an8 hose, plug it to your an8 oil drain adapter on turbo

5- plug it on your an8 oil drain weld-in bung...

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Oil feed and return...DONE...

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O.K. now vacuum lines...

Wastegate actuator:

Image is better than word so here it is...My setup...

I used a Blox racing manual boost controller but there are other styles. And manual boost controller is simpler to install and alot less expensive and do the job a well as the electronic ones... Only difference is that you need to get out of your car to adjust...

1- put your manual boost controller on the firewall near the turbo...(its not needed but your there and if you plan on increasing boost, its there...) Also, in the kit, new vacuum line are included.

2-Put your vacuum line in the following fashion:

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Now that this is installed, set it to minimum for now. OR YOU'LL BLOW YOUR ENGINE!!! your not tuned for it yet...

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Exhaust is simple.

You need a minimum of 2.5" COMPLETE exhaust, not a axle back.

You can use ralliart or evo x, but its not simpler. Its route is not the same because of the AWD system. So any exhaust will have to be modified.

I got an e-bay special..lol and it works fine. You'll need to either modify the downpipe OR the exhaust. because of the complexity of the downpipe, I opted to modify the exhaust.... I had a surprise when I got my exhaust, it already had 2 oxigen sensor adapter on it, so I could use one for the car rear o2 sensor and the other for my wideband....If you don't have those, you'll need to have a second o2 sensor bung install on the front pipe of the exhaust for your wideband.

75c1876a-cf38-4d54-b8ae-24f78cb1f9ec_zps

Hot side of turbo setup...DONE

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Intercooler and piping

To install this you need:

-Stock ralliart intercooler

-Stock ralliart intercooler piping, lower and upper,

-Stock air box (ralliart is bolt on, evo x don't fit since its battery is in the trunk...or you'll have to relocate your battery) I went injen CAI that I got used for a good price, but DONT GET A CAI...It doesn't fit because of our cvt cooler install... now I had to cut mine in order to make it fit as a RAM air...

-Stock BOV piping. (to my surprise, mine didn't come with it so I had to be creative...)

-Stock BOV (I went with HSK SSQV4 bov just because I always wanted something HKS...lol, but there are many other good manufacturer.)

Any of these can be upgraded to aftermarket stuff, but OEM is easier and cheaper...normally comes with the turbo kit too...

It is pretty straight forward to install.

The thing to look out for is...

1- last piece going to your throttle body wont fit. Ralliart is at 0 degree angle, ours is at 45 degree. So chuck the last soft piece.

heres the remedy to this....

a- 135 degree 2.5" coupler

b- 2.5" with 90 degree elbow aluminium pipe. (about 10 inch long)

c- 2.5" straight soft coupler....

IMG_0128_zps4e445c98.jpg

Its a tight fit but it works.... You may have to bent the fitting from the CVT dip stick a bit to get it out of the way, nothing major...just don't break it..

IMG_0129_zpsbd701b49.jpg

2- We don't have fitting/brakets to hold the intercooler, so you will have to fabricate some. I have no pictures....because I didn't do them yet. the intercooler does hold on it own, but NOT the best...you get some rattles...lol

My BOV is venting to atmosphere, but I am in the process in recirculating it...Its easier to tune, but be carefull to take in consideration that this will increase the torque on your transmission....HINT-HINT wink-wink....

More about tuning later...

FUEL

I will do a full write up later because I plan on changing my stock fuel pump with a evo x and same for the fuel rail. BUT it does work with your stock feul rail and pump I am using that as we speak.

Just remove your fuel rail, without removing the fuel line. Some fuel will leak so act accordingly (rag under it...) Replace you fuel injectors with the evo x or ralliart ones....Replace fuel rail.....

The only reasone I am changing it, its to have a feul return line and a fuel pressure regulator(FRP) and better pump. But stock works too.

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Just remove your fuel rail, without removing the fuel line. Some fuel will leak so act accordingly (rag under it...) Replace you fuel injectors with the evo x or ralliart ones....Replace fuel rail.....

The only reasone I am changing it, its to have a feul return line and a fuel pressure regulator(FRP) and better pump. But stock works too.

Evo X fuel pump housing is almost $400 bucks from Mitsubishi *groan* time to hit up ebay.....

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FRONT VACUUM LINES

Again picture are better than words...

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By plenium, I mean intake manifold...Its location...

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BOV lines

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That pretty much cover it...

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FRONT VACUUM LINES

Again picture are better than words...

56397860-c568-47c7-87f3-09afe2c6eaa1_zps

By plenium, I mean intake manifold...Its location...

28514306-44c4-42dc-b6e8-76c24c1540dc_zps

BOV lines

a8c9e8e7-5e66-4536-a131-b89c97e4325d_zps

That pretty much cover it...

Is the "T" connection for the vacuum coming from the intake manifold two 5/8" connections and one 3/8"?

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Is the "T" connection for the vacuum coming from the intake manifold two 5/8" connections and one 3/8"?

To be honest, I took a universal "T" connector and you just cut it at the right spot, giving you the right size...but I'll look into it.

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Is the evox and the RA radiator the same?

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Is the evox and the RA radiator the same?

That I know of ...yes.....OEM is single row, plastic edges I beleive and mishimoto and ebay one are 2 row full aluminium...

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I am now recirculated......lol... add HKS ssqv4 bov recirculation adapter, 1.25" aluminium pipe, 1.25" hose (used the lower evp x rad hose that I couldn't use lol...) and good to go! Work great...BUT...lost the LOUD PSHHHHHHHHHHHHHT....... :cry:

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This is a super writeup - turbo is a long way off for me, but this is a really great guide. Hope my 2012 SE will play nice with it

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This is a super writeup - turbo is a long way off for me, but this is a really great guide. Hope my 2012 SE will play nice with it

Thanks...hope it serves well....

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It is still not clear to me how much torque can the CVT handle.

I have an 2011 ASX (2.0L 4b11) and would like to turbo-charge it. I am aiming at a 40% gain, from 160hp to 230hp (not whp).

The CVT is the only thing holding me back.

How was your experience? Did your CVT hold?

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It is still not clear to me how much torque can the CVT handle.

I have an 2011 ASX (2.0L 4b11) and would like to turbo-charge it. I am aiming at a 40% gain, from 160hp to 230hp (not whp).

The CVT is the only thing holding me back.

How was your experience? Did your CVT hold?

Lets put it this way... I've manage to crack 2 piston and the tranny is holding....lol

Cant help you with numbers...I dont have them...

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It is still not clear to me how much torque can the CVT handle.

I have an 2011 ASX (2.0L 4b11) and would like to turbo-charge it. I am aiming at a 40% gain, from 160hp to 230hp (not whp).

The CVT is the only thing holding me back.

How was your experience? Did your CVT hold?

The manufacturer torque rating for the Jatco CVT used in our cars is 184 ft*lbs. Included in that is a marginal factor of safety, I"ll let you speculate what that is.

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so in the distant distant future i would consider doing a turbo. i have the 2.4 so i'm not sure how different that'd be and idk if i have tthe same cvt or not. i'd assume so.

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so in the distant distant future i would consider doing a turbo. i have the 2.4 so i'm not sure how different that'd be and idk if i have tthe same cvt or not. i'd assume so.

2.4 has more torque.....CVT will need to be tuned properly or change the wastegate for a lower psi...and yes you have the same tranny

Mine is probably comming off soon :cry: ...look into sale section soon...lol

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The manufacturer torque rating for the Jatco CVT used in our cars is 184 ft*lbs. Included in that is a marginal factor of safety, I"ll let you speculate what that is.

Hello, Blizzard25. I have seen your post saying it is 250 n-m (or 184 lbs*ft, same thing).

But was the 184 measured on the wheel or right up the engine?

Was that a 2.0L (4B11) CVT or a 2.4L (4B12) CVT? I do not know if the CVT for the two engines are the same... And as T-Flash has pointed, the 2.4L, 4B12, has more torque, maybe Mitsu has enforced the its CVT.

And, you two guys (Blizzard25 and T-Flash), I read the topics of your monting.

How was your experience with the CVT? Did it hold?

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Lets put it this way... I've manage to crack 2 piston and the tranny is holding....lol

Cant help you with numbers...I dont have them...

Ok, T-Flash, now I have seen your answer.

Thanks.

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Flash,

Maybe you can clear this up for me;

I've now seen boosted 2.0's with and without changing the intake mani.. with that being said, what did you do for intake manifold, and MAP sensor?

Run one, or not?

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Flash,

Maybe you can clear this up for me;

I've now seen boosted 2.0's with and without changing the intake mani.. with that being said, what did you do for intake manifold, and MAP sensor?

Run one, or not?

MAP sensor is an evo one... you need a 3 bar MAP sensor its plug and play. Yes you can use your intake manifold, just run a T adapter so you can plug your BOV. If you are refering to the MAF sensor on the intake tube, use the same one you already have but you will have to change your intake and filter with either evox or ralliart. I suggest ralliart since you wont have to relocate your battery.

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MAP sensor is an evo one... you need a 3 bar MAP sensor its plug and play. Yes you can use your intake manifold, just run a T adapter so you can plug your BOV. If you are refering to the MAF sensor on the intake tube, use the same one you already have but you will have to change your intake and filter with either evox or ralliart. I suggest ralliart since you wont have to relocate your battery.

How did you T off the 3 bar MAP, isnt it sealed?

I've already got the ETS Evo X intake coming in, I was considering just getting an evo mani w/ tb to avoid modifying the piping, and just pop a 3 bar into that. Any noticeable difference in performance from stock intake mani to evo that you know of?

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How did you T off the 3 bar MAP, isnt it sealed?

I've already got the ETS Evo X intake coming in, I was considering just getting an evo mani w/ tb to avoid modifying the piping, and just pop a 3 bar into that. Any noticeable difference in performance from stock intake mani to evo that you know of?

MAP sensor in on the intake manifold, MAF sensor is on the intake. The "T" i was talking about is in the vacuum hose going in the manifold from a pipe running along the side of the block/head so you can plug your bov vacuum hose...

For youe ETS intake, just confirm that it is comming with the MAF adapter. I was under impression that the re-used your old one IF you have an evo .....You dont...

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