JukEboX

Making My Own Custom Drl Circuit

27 posts in this topic

Hi guys. I need a little understanding and electrical help. I am building my own DRL circuit since the OEM DRL circuit in my 09 GTS is build into the headlight

How The OEM DRLs work:

When you turn the car on and release the hand brake or take the car out of Park it turns on the headlights. Problem with this is that the headlights are running at a considerably low voltage (well below 12 volts) so separating that circuit to build your own is not an option.

How My Custom Circuit will work:

Using the Fog light circuit trick I am running a wire from an open spot on my fuse box to the lights I am using so that when the car engine is turned on they will illuminate

My Set Up:

post-7443-0-98904300-1432212466_thumb.jp

So here is the circuit plugged into the engine fuse. I ran this wire to my white circuit for my switch backs. These bulbs are also connected to the parking light circuit. The circuit is as follows:

  • When engine is turned on white lights illuminate.
  • When the car is off and the parking lights are turned on the same lights will illuminate.
  • When car is turned on and parking lights are turned the same lights will illuminate.

So if you see there are two was to get them to turn on with a power source coming from 2 areas.

The Problem

post-7443-0-08359600-1432212468_thumb.jp

Here is a closer view of the fuse box you can see the circuit connected to the engine component. Now here is the weird thing. If the car is off and I turn on the parking lights the black relay on the far right (marked MR3011978, THE BIG ONE below the fuse puller) will click will continuously click. It will not do this with the car on. Is there something I can do to keep it from clicking? I know the LEDs use less power so I am unsure if that is the problem or the face that it is a 12 volt connection if the fact that it has a 15amp fuse in it. Any help here would be appreciated.

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Ok. I'm not entirely sure what is making the big relay do that, but I do know that last time I had something hooked up like that, it threw off my ignition timing.

But anyway I'm having a difficult time understanding what the issue is.

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Ok. I'm not entirely sure what is making the big relay do that, but I do know that last time I had something hooked up like that, it threw off my ignition timing.

But anyway I'm having a difficult time understanding what the issue is.

Everything is working. What is freaking me out is the clicking! I leave my parking lights on for shows some times and I don't want people coming to get me cause the clicking is freaking people out.

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Well it may be caused by the low voltage from the drls. Maybe where you take the output, try putting in another relay to separate the circuits. Thats the only thing I can think of. Relays dont like being charged at low voltage

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Well it may be caused by the low voltage from the drls. Maybe where you take the output, try putting in another relay to separate the circuits. Thats the only thing I can think of. Relays dont like being charged at low voltage

I am not plugged into the DRL circuit. I am plugged into the same 12V fuse as he is here--> http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47024

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What happens when you unplug the circuit? It may be possible that the coil in the actual relay is going out. Relays dont like low voltage, and so they can be damaged if they experience low voltage for too long.

I imagine is a constant rapid clicking. Right? Its not like a rhythmically timed clicking.

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What happens when you unplug the circuit? It may be possible that the coil in the actual relay is going out. Relays dont like low voltage, and so they can be damaged if they experience low voltage for too long.

I imagine is a constant rapid clicking. Right? Its not like a rhythmically timed clicking.

Yes it is a constant clicking. From what those directions from that post say is that its a 12V connection. By low voltage, you mean the LEDs using low voltage?

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No no I meant that at some point if the relay experienced low voltage, it may have been permanently damaged.

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No no I meant that at some point if the relay experienced low voltage, it may have been permanently damaged.

Yeah all it is doing is clicking. Car is running and starting fine. Anything I can do to stop the clicking or find a circuit to tap in to when I start the car?

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If you're just looking for power when the ignition is on, you can do what I did and take it from the cigarette lighter in the front of the console and have it run into a relay

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981d3206dfb558d3edb5dd00599af7b8.jpg

Maybe useful.

WHere is that? In the dash? Its a pain to get in and out of the firewall.

Also I did some looking at the add a circuit wire last night and it looked like I put a 15AMP fuse where the 10AMP fuse should go. I can try and switch that and see if that fixes it.

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Ok so update. I tried it with a 10amp and now it doesn't power the 12 volt accessory. Ideas?

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That fuse box is accessible through the far left of the dash. I've never needed to look up wiring diagrams for the lancer yet. We should have those available, unless they are not in the service manual. Durnit, now I'm curious.

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Hmm thats interesting...

What if you put Ina larger fuse?

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WHere is that? In the dash? Its a pain to get in and out of the firewall.

Firewall can be avoided by ducking through the grommets into the rockers behind the fender well covers, another grommet in the electrical track under the door sill and your into the cabin.

That fuse box is accessible through the far left of the dash. I've never needed to look up wiring diagrams for the lancer yet. We should have those available, unless they are not in the service manual. Durnit, now I'm curious.

Not exactly diagrams, but i've found these helpful for circuit identification:

http://projectlancer.net/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=25

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Firewall can be avoided by ducking through the grommets into the rockers behind the fender well covers, another grommet in the electrical track under the door sill and your into the cabin.

Got pictures of these places? If so I am need to rerun some wires :)

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documentation is in the service manual

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Got pictures of these places? If so I am need to rerun some wires :)

I have them on my other hard drive, but here are a couple of examples:

Through fender well: http://projectlancer.net/index.php?showtopic=13346

Through engine bay: http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-how-tos-installations/426047-how-run-wires-through-firewall.html

i have lines run through the fender wells on both driver and passenger side, I think it's super clean since the cabling doesn't have to snake around to the firewall, it just goes into the fender and is gone. I would not recommend doing without the grommets - instead, drill a hole and push the wires through. A bit more work but a cleaner install overall. If you plan to come in behind the glove box there is a ton of room back there (which I love) and you can fit at least 2 short runs of conduit across the AC controls and over to the driver's side fuse box. Any work you do at the fuse box you are probably best off removing the plastics, that little "access door" has enough room for a flashlight or a hand, not both. When I pull fuses from there I use a pair of 12" needle-nose pliers, makes it so much easier

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I have them on my other hard drive, but here are a couple of examples:

Through fender well: http://projectlancer.net/index.php?showtopic=13346

Through engine bay: http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-how-tos-installations/426047-how-run-wires-through-firewall.html

i have lines run through the fender wells on both driver and passenger side, I think it's super clean since the cabling doesn't have to snake around to the firewall, it just goes into the fender and is gone. I would not recommend doing without the grommets - instead, drill a hole and push the wires through. A bit more work but a cleaner install overall. If you plan to come in behind the glove box there is a ton of room back there (which I love) and you can fit at least 2 short runs of conduit across the AC controls and over to the driver's side fuse box. Any work you do at the fuse box you are probably best off removing the plastics, that little "access door" has enough room for a flashlight or a hand, not both. When I pull fuses from there I use a pair of 12" needle-nose pliers, makes it so much easier

yeah I did something like that.

QUICK UPDATE!

I am doing some wiring on my headlights and once they are done I am going to test out the circuit and give you a definitive answer oh how everything works. Hopefully by this weekend.

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Ok quick update. Ran the circuit with the 10 amp fuse and nothing. Might be my add a circuit wire. Not sure yet. Gong to test the lights with my drill battery tomorrow and then the add a circuit with the fogs again. Maybe I can narrow down what's going on.

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are your DRLs hid or led? if theyre HID they will need more than a 10A fuse

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OK I have finally figured it out! First I have to thank fastcar123 and some of my new coworkers at my new job for helping me figure this out!

So quick recap. The DRL circuit on the OEM headlights for the ES,GTS,SE and I believe the Ralliart is pretty much the headlight at a lower voltage. If you plug an LED into it, it will make the LED flicker.

So on my new headlights I decided to use switchbacks as the DRLs and make a circuit bypassing the OEM plug completely. For the DRLs positive I used an ATM plug to the Fuse box at fuse 24 which is a 10AMP. For this circuit I am using a 5AMP fuse. See here:

Fuse View

The fuse ATM is the closer one.

The farther one is a constant power on I use for other accessories and LEDs.

Here is top down view of the fuse box.

Top View Fuse

The ground for this circuit I tied into the OEM harness ground.

So the final product is just like the Fogs On circuit. When you turn the car on it turns the DRLs on and they are always on until 10 seconds after the car is turned off.

DRL Close Up

It works out quite well. I can't wait to drive around with them. LOL. Any questions let me know.

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came out great bro!! :D

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came out great bro!! :D

Thanks for all your help!

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