WilliamG

Project Bevo

51 posts in this topic

My goal with the 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer ES CVT is to get it performing almost as good as a stock EVO. I hope that with the suggestions and knowledge of people from project lancer I can stay NA and almost have the power of an EVO. Baby EVO..

what I know/plan to do so far

K&N typhoon CAI

Greddy cat back exhaust

Throttle body swapped with a TB from a gallant

TEIN lowering springs (eventually coilovers)

Swapping out shifter to an RA for the sport shift option.

If anyone has good suggestions please comment :)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Swapping out shifter to an RA for the sport shift option.

That wont work... Your is a CVT (constant variable transmission) I.E. automatic, The RA is an SST! I other terms, semi automatic, it has a clutch, yours dont... Completely different system and not compatible unless you manage to swap the whole tranny...

You can get a GTS shifter though and get a "virtual" 6 speed but after 2010, you need to fool around with the wires, its NOT plug and play...

But the rest seems legit.... Good combination.

You might want to get evo x or RA camshaft.... Will increase power in the upper band.

My suggestion for the exhaust, dont go cat back unless you just want to change the sound and have minimal gain, get a full headder back 2.5 inch exhaust and a 2.5inch headder...

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That wont work... Your is a CVT (constant variable transmission) I.E. automatic, The RA is an SST! I other terms, semi automatic, it has a clutch, yours dont... Completely different system and not compatible unless you manage to swap the whole tranny...

You can get a GTS shifter though and get a "virtual" 6 speed but after 2010, you need to fool around with the wires, its NOT plug and play...

But the rest seems legit.... Good combination.

You might want to get evo x or RA camshaft.... Will increase power in the upper band.

My suggestion for the exhaust, dont go cat back unless you just want to change the sound and have minimal gain, get a full headder back 2.5 inch exhaust and a 2.5inch headder...

That's right. I should've looked at your thread for the shifter swap haha. I've noticed a kind of jumpy feeling when I accelerate from a stop. could that be the 1st gear slipping?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With a CVT, it's a. impossible or b. VERY money consuming to have comparative HP to an evo. Our cars have "148 hp" stock, and with the CVT, that's about a 20% HP loss from the crank to the wheels. Most dyno'd CVT's have read 120, 130 hp and unless you started to modify engine internals, getting over even 200 hp N/A isn't going to be very easy.

Here's what I would start with:

-4g69 TB

-SRI/CAI

-ALUTEC Lightweight crank pulley (don't cheap out on this part)

-Header back exhaust (2.25 or 2.5")

-Custom made 4-2-1 headers

-Custom made cams

-High quality tune

-CVT Trans and oil cooler

That's probably about $5,000 right there, and would get you a little over 215 hp. probably

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me where I can get a 4g69 for my Lancer GT? Its the 2.4L, 5speed. I want to upgrade it along with getting headers

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bump to that ^ I want to know where you can get one too, and has anyone made a DIY video on putting a. 4g69 TB into a lancer?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

go to a salvage yard

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When it comes to exhaust since engines use back pressure from the exhaust system wouldn't the 2.25in header back exhaust be better than a 2.5in?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also if I want to put save up money and boost my CVT lancer what performance mods should I not do because they'll have to be changed to install the turbo?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dont get Headder.... You need turbo manifold. Exhaust will need minimum of 2.5" and a custom "extension to have it plug into the turbo manifold. But you can have your original 2.25 but not recommended since the turbo downpipe is 2.5

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

66e11844d9bdc1510af8a5d0b49e8dec.jpg8271eb723fe22a12a55718a1a0ef366a.jpg

A little update - did some cosmetic work with plastic dip. Looking to paint over the Mitsubishi emblems with a reflective gold (could someone suggest a good brand to go on top of plastidip?)

I'm about to order the K&N typhoon intake system this Monday when I get my new mailing address. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the interior chrome trim and give it a nice couple of layers of plastidip then either cyan or gold for the actual color.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crank pulley, intake, header, header-back exhaust,, hi-flow cat, OEM Evo cam, and add a sprint booster and you'll be content with the 160hp.

Rule of thumb for exhaust piping - don't go larger than a 1/4" bump in pipe diameter over OEM.

Back pressure is needed but it can also hinder performance.

Also keep in mind - more engine power means more fuel consumption. So if you want a peppier ride - be prepared to spend extra $$$ in fuel

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would 1/4" jump over the 2011 lancer ES OEM exhaust be?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would 1/4" jump over the 2011 lancer ES OEM exhaust be?

I believe stock diameter is 2" for base 2.0L and GTS

Aftermarket is usually 2.25-2.5"

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now you're talking about from the header back down to the cat I want to keep it no more than 1/4" bigger but for the tip those are usually like 4 inches in diameter when going with a Greddy or Injen exhaust right?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tip is just a finishing accent. Can be a cannon if you want. But I suggest the physical exhaust pipe from the header thru back shouldn't be any larger than 1/4" larger than stock

Also - use mandrel bends (if going custom route). Those crush bends are garbage and defeat any power gain

Here's the difference between the two

cd494874c6670369014529b4b1deec3d.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It would cost more money for the Mendrel bend because they have to weld the bends together instead of crushing them? Thanks for dealing with all of my nooby questions

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct.

But most exhaust shops that use mandrel bends - have the cut to fit kits. They basically cut the section the need and weld the system together.

d442e9309a8daf37749049404b1fbc29.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A small update. This week Thursday I will getting my front windows tinted down from 30% to 15% to match the the back and sometime next week I'm going to be getting the the taillights a beautiful spray and wet sanded black out job. The window tint job is going to be $20 for removal and $80 for the the new tint totaling to $100, and the the guys doing the the tail lights said I have to bring my car in and leave it with them over night and that's a $120 job. He said it would be less if I were to take the the taillights out and put them back myself but my lancer is my DD so sad face there. Before and after pictures coming soon [emoji4] Oh and by the the way read this post again and see how I had wrote double (the)'s the whole time if you didn't already notice them. #mindgames

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

89b8b7da99931683e23d0234a08a6931.jpg. So the new tint is on and project BEVO is at 15% all around [emoji16] I didn't want to go down to 10% or 5% because I don't need the gate guards (cops) for our military base trying to right me up a ticket. Sorry for the crappy picture.

I was at advanced Autoparts and some guy said he would powder coat all of my wheels for $300. Do you guys think that's a reasonable price?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say $300 is a good deal if they are getting blasted and painted, not so hot if painted only. $75 per wheel is about the nest I can find in northern NY thus far

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's probably a quick acid dip for prep.

There's a place here in Toronto that dips for $250 CDN. Standard colors though - No clear coat - and a so-so job. Often misses inside corners

You get what you pay for - but people that use this shop are content with the service considering the price paid.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Updateeeee! K&N typhoon CAI came in today and boy does the engine sound so much more powerful. Increase in performance was slightly noticeable but it's a beginner mod that definitely is needed for bigger mods in the future. Swapping out the OEM exhaust with the K&N took about an hour for me because I'm not very mechanically sound, therefore, if I can do it you can do it. oh and by the way those stupid a** screw poppy clips that keep the air catch down broke when I took them out so now I have to get new ones or just bolt it down. I bought it for $317 USD (shipping included) and if you don't have this yet you need to get it haha. Anyways here's a before and after pic. 8db085c60476aa008fd690b2f83cb611.jpg0ffdf45825a9fefc57e903f52f5a7fb2.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another bolt on part has been put in today! I bought the Allutec crank pulley from RPW and the weight different between the OEM crank pulley and the Allutec one is crazy. There's only one problem that I need suggestions from you guys. After putting in the new crank pulley and starting up I instantly heard this kind of ticking noise at idle and it gets louder the higher the RPMs are. I have a feeling I didn't tighten the crank pulley enough and it has just enough room to shake and make that noise. Has anyone else had this problem?94145e601c2becc297080323322562d3.jpg

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now