Denyzen

Denyzen Gts N/A Build

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I've finally been allowed some free time while there's still daylight so I could take some pics and get my build thread started. First pic here is day 1 from the dealership. Came to me with SRI and aftermarket Muffler.

IMG_2085 (1).jpg

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Added a wing back in December. It already had the holes drilled in the trunk, but someone removed the wing at some point prior. Had temporary caps caulked in to stop water + snowmelt getting into trunk. :angry: It was a good buy but took a few hours of modification to get it together and mounted. Sits well though.

IMG_2258.jpg

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IMG_2259.jpg

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IMG_2260.jpg

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Ummm...okay guess I can't go pic crazy it's telling me I can't throw anymore pics up. Should I go for smaller pic sizes to minimize kb?

Anyway, my next little project for is the throttle body. Currently, my rpms will randomly stick around the 2k mark and slowly drop lower when I take it out of gear and into neutral. Mitsu mechanic was telling me it's a common problem with the Outlander (I think) which is also a 4B12, and that they can sometimes fix it by taking the throttle body off and cleaning thoroughly. Instead I bought a re-manufactured one for the Eclipse 4G69 for just over a hundred bucks with shipping. Will swap it next weekend and see how she does. I'm not sure what to expect if anything from a 5mm larger TB, but I'll share what I find out.

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Looking sexy! Keep it going! What are you planning to do after the TB?

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12 hours ago, Denyzen said:

IMG_2260.jpg

I'd suggest to put back your stock snorkel to  channel air to your short ram as it will only suck in the warm ambient engine bay temperatures or better to get a RA snorkel to have a bigger bore to help cooler air in. The TB swap will be an easy process once you know the process. I will be swapping mine too this spring. I think the most important part is to ensure that you relearn it to prevent some idling issues.

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20 minutes ago, gstacruz777 said:

I'd suggest to put back your stock snorkel to  channel air to your short ram as it will only suck in the warm ambient engine bay temperatures or better to get a RA snorkel to have a bigger bore to help cooler air in. The TB swap will be an easy process once you know the process. I will be swapping mine too this spring. I think the most important part is to ensure that you relearn it to prevent some idling issues.

I´m with Cruz in this one, you should definnitly put back your snorkel and the right half of the box where the previous air filter was (if it fits), so the cold air will flow straight to the SRI

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+1 on the snorkel.  You can build a bracket off of the bolt you are using to stabilize the SRI just behind the battery to keep it from flopping around.  Also look into a heat shield. Judging by the coupler to the TB you have an Injen SRI, not sure if Injen makes a heat shield for our cars but K&N does.  You might have to shorten the pipe on the filter end to use the K&N shield, looks like your SRI is a bit longer than mine

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I'm trying to figure out photoshop so I can still add pics as I progres. Yeah I'm with you guys on changing out the intake setup; that's pre-existing from a previous owner. I don't have any of the old hardware for the intake. Once I get the TB swapped I'll be getting with a buddy to see what we can figure out with welding and routing new intake piping. I want to match the intake piping ID to the new TB so I'm not creating a smaller choke leading to the TB, and it'd be ideal if I could relocate intake near driver's side headlight area to get it further away from the engine.

I've been trying to get the 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers ordered; as soon as Frank replies back to me with the paypal info I'll get the ball rolling on the 4-5 weeks shipping process.

After header install I'm doing a 2 1/2 inch exhaust from the headers back, replace cat with a Flowmaster 223 high flow, and keep the current muffler because I already like the tone.

That's all I currently have in mind for performance work.

Will be getting a black gloss wrap on tail fin and hood.

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1 hour ago, Denyzen said:

I'm trying to figure out photoshop so I can still add pics as I progres. Yeah I'm with you guys on changing out the intake setup; that's pre-existing from a previous owner. I don't have any of the old hardware for the intake. Once I get the TB swapped I'll be getting with a buddy to see what we can figure out with welding and routing new intake piping. I want to match the intake piping ID to the new TB so I'm not creating a smaller choke leading to the TB, and it'd be ideal if I could relocate intake near driver's side headlight area to get it further away from the engine.

I've been trying to get the 4-2-1 Supercircuit headers ordered; as soon as Frank replies back to me with the paypal info I'll get the ball rolling on the 4-5 weeks shipping process.

After header install I'm doing a 2 1/2 inch exhaust from the headers back, replace cat with a Flowmaster 223 high flow, and keep the current muffler because I already like the tone.

That's all I currently have in mind for performance work.

Will be getting a black gloss wrap on tail fin and hood.

You have probably checked your vehicle but I might as well just remind you again about FED and Pzev vehicles since the pzev needs an adapter from the super circuit 4-2-1 headers and only RRM has it for $99.

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Thank you cruz, yeah I do have the fed spec verified with Mitsubishi with last 8 of vin #. I’m currently fighting with the TB swap, got it all done last night and car is in limp mode now. Won’t rev over 3k rpm and continuously pulsates idle. I’m reading through forums to diagnose; swapped exterior black housing from old one to new and that fixes the ASC system service required but doesn’t change anything else. Going to go through ECU relearn a few times after work tonight.

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5 hours ago, Denyzen said:

Thank you cruz, yeah I do have the fed spec verified with Mitsubishi with last 8 of vin #. I’m currently fighting with the TB swap, got it all done last night and car is in limp mode now. Won’t rev over 3k rpm and continuously pulsates idle. I’m reading through forums to diagnose; swapped exterior black housing from old one to new and that fixes the ASC system service required but doesn’t change anything else. Going to go through ECU relearn a few times after work tonight.

with the TB swap, as long as you follow the relearn process (turn on engine, don't step on any pedals and let the rough idle relearn) , you'll be fine but the TPS (black box) should be swapped since it is not compatible with the Lancers. What TB did you get?

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I got the 4G 69 throttlebody. Do I need to swap the entire black box, or just the external housing?

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from a Galant?

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38 minutes ago, Denyzen said:

I got the 4G 69 throttlebody. Do I need to swap the entire black box, or just the external housing?

 

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Should be a TB from the Eclipse? I forget what the model number was, but pretty sure it was an Eclipse TB. Couldn't get it to work, so for now I had to go back to stock TB.

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I installed the Supercircuit headers today. They add a nice deeper tone to the exhaust. I still need to get the exhaust redone from the headers back; I've got all the new parts sitting here just need to get it over to the shop when I have time and they have a lift open. I've only driven a few miles to test out the new headers, and one thing I'm noticing is my rpm gauge says that I'm now sitting at 1100 rpm at idle even though it sounds and feels just the same when idling. No pulsing idle, just seems like it's reading high. My usual idle would be 500-600 rpm. Sidenote, if you're doing your own headers get power tools with deepwell sockets. It was a nightmare wrenching everything and trying to squeeze room in for breaker bars.

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18 hours ago, Denyzen said:

I installed the Supercircuit headers today. They add a nice deeper tone to the exhaust. I still need to get the exhaust redone from the headers back; I've got all the new parts sitting here just need to get it over to the shop when I have time and they have a lift open. I've only driven a few miles to test out the new headers, and one thing I'm noticing is my rpm gauge says that I'm now sitting at 1100 rpm at idle even though it sounds and feels just the same when idling. No pulsing idle, just seems like it's reading high. My usual idle would be 500-600 rpm. Sidenote, if you're doing your own headers get power tools with deepwell sockets. It was a nightmare wrenching everything and trying to squeeze room in for breaker bars.

Give the ECU some time to figure out the new exhaust flow and it may correct.  The O2 sensors are not seeing the same readings they are used to seeing

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