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About Twylyt

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Savannah, GA
  • Car Turbo'd 2009 Lancer ES Sport

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  1. Let me know exactly what you'd like a picture of. I had new lines made because my old ones ended being in the way (long story) so the crimping will be different, however if you just want to see where everything leads, I can get those pics.
  2. +1 You really need to clean the area first and observe the hose with pressure on it. Is the level in your power steering reservoir going down. I personally wouldn't change anything until you know there is a leak/problem. Does your steering system give you any issues?
  3. Trying an engine swap...

    +1 Our cars didn't come from the factory with RWD. If you have a drive shaft then you're AWD. Otherwise you're FWD (which I believe your 2010 ES is). By upgrade internals I'm talking about physical parts inside of the engine (ie: cams, pistons, rods, etc.). Basically build the the block you have to handle the power you want, up to 500hp. Anything beyond that, go ahead and do your 4B11T swap along with an AWD conversion. Also, that 500hp limit is there for a reason. The strongest clutch/pressure plate combo that will fit our cars will only hold 440 lbf of torque which is about 500hp on our cars. Plus, that's really hard to keep to the ground on a FWD car, so anything over that will require an AWD conversion. Again, let us know your goals and we can steer you in the right direction. There are a ton of people here willing to give you info so keep the questions coming!
  4. Trying an engine swap...

    What power levels are you going for and how much are you willing to spend? I ask, because I don't see any real reason to put a 4B11t in. The only reason to would be to go for big power (over 500hp) and you're not going to get that to ground effectively without awd. To get there, you're easily looking at $10k and that's doing the work yourself. If you want less power than that, then you could get there on your current engine with upgraded internals, turbo kit, and fwd manual transmission. Will be cheaper for you and less complicated in the end. Either way it's a lot of work, but extremely fun!
  5. VIS Carbon Fiber Hood questions

    Yeah, I have the Greddy ones on my CF hood and no issues. They attach to the hinge points so no issues with flex or anything. Go for it!
  6. Is your car modded at all? Could be many things from what you're describing. You can take the cam actuators out and test them by applying 12v to see if they move. If they do, then put them in unplugged. If the car runs great, then you have a harness issue. If not, then it's not your actuators. Have you removed the valve cover to see if everything is cool? With that knocking sound, you really should take quick look.
  7. Ls3 swap

    I would advise the same thing. You will not find a kit or really any parts off the shelf that will make this work. Everything from engine mounts to drive shafts will need to be custom. Not to discourage you from a project that could be cool, but making sure you are realistic about what you're getting into. If you do decide to continue, please keep the forum updated though!
  8. Check the plug that goes to the throttle body. I had a similar problem a few years ago. One of those wires was broken making the throttle go all over the place, throwing me into limp mode or stalling out. Sometimes it would make connection and work fine then all of the sudden it wouldn't.
  9. DTC P0016 Crank/Cam Issue

    Yeah, I read through that whole thing a week back. Really good info. Changed my solenoid and position sensor, but nothing improved. Might try that "flush" they talked about in the thread. I'll keep this updated as I drive. Hopefully it really is just air and I can put others at ease who see the same problem, especially if they double checked their timing.
  10. DTC P0016 Crank/Cam Issue

    I have a similar problem, but I get the p0014 for the exhaust side. I'm almost positive it's air in there from when I upgraded the gear housing. I took the valve cover off and checked that my timing is spot on. I put a new, updated chain on when I did my build so I know it's not chain stretch either. When comparing the target MIVEC values to the actual I can see that at first the cam didn't do anything, but now after about 100 miles it's starting to try and move a little. Not much by any means, but a little, so there is hope that it's just air in the cam gear. DEFINITELY CHECK YOUR TIMING! It takes maybe an hour and can save your engine if you find that it's off. Like MINE said though, good luck with p0446.
  11. I'd be interested. PM me some pics, especially of any defects and we can discuss it. Thanks.
  12. Try it out and let us know. Removing these bumper covers is straight forward. I think it'll work, but would be interested in a definite answer as I'd like to make this change myself.
  13. Why'd you turbo your lancer?

    WOW!!! 5K all in?!!! That's a great deal! I really enjoyed following your build. It should definitely give some confidence to others who would like to follow suit.
  14. Very nice build. Like to see that you're doing it right and paying attention to the little details. It sucks when you don't and have to do it all again.
  15. I Want Some Unbiased Opinions!!

    First thing is to be honest with yourself about when you'll want a different vehicle. Resale value doesn't matter if you'll keep it for 20 years. From what you said about dependability though, I assume you'll be keeping whichever vehicle for a while so I put this to you also. From a 'cost to own' standpoint (maintenance, parts, etc.) the lancer will PROBABLY be cheaper and easier to work on than that BMW. I haven't owned the bimmer so can't say for sure, but I'm just saying at the end of the day, what you lose in resale value you should make up for in lower maintenance costs over the life of the lancer. This of course is just my opinion and speculation so please check it out and compare for yourself.