multimix

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26 Jr. Contributor

About multimix

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  • Birthday 05/25/1988

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Latvia
  • Car 4B12 CVT outlander

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  1. Trying an engine swap...

    If You really want an 4B11T engine swap, it will cost quite a lot. Cheapest way is to put in EVOX engine/manual/diff combo and blocking the diff. Basically You will have FWD EVOX with possibility to install rest of the AWD system later. Check some photos of a such example car : https://www.drive2.ru/r/mitsubishi/681069/ Obvious problems as explained by the owner of that setup are massive wheelspin and torque steer to the left ( since Lancer fwd have shorter driver side axle shafts ) Then again, all fwd lancers with stock 4B11 or 4B12 boosted engines have the same issues. Obviously, suspension and brake upgrades would be needed too. There is example for EVOX engine swap done to another Russian Lancer. Owner went from 1.8CVT to 2.4 engine, NA tuned it to 210 hp( ~180whp) then installed awd with Lancer 5spd and then swapped to EVOX engine (Lancer 5spd fits 4B11T engine, but upgraded clutch is needed ) : https://www.drive2.ru/r/mitsubishi/288230376151840473/ You can probably imagine how much money was spent on that car, not even mentioning cosmetics, interior and suspension upgrades. Therefore it all depends if You have strong enough personal reasons in spending that much money on Your current car, rather than saving up and trading it in for ralliart or if You dislike used cars, getting newer lancer with manual and factory awd. If I would have to choose, I would opt out for ralliart turbo kit install. Even Your current CVT would hold a safe boosted 2.0 engine, but if it fails, You can then switch to manual.
  2. Rotors for Lancer 1.5L

    Your Lancer has single piston front calipers, Outlander 2.4 has two piston calipers, larger brake rotors and longer pads. You simply get front calipers from Outlander ( brake lines too, they are a little bit longer on Outlander.), discs and pads. No custom modification or hub change. Old calipers go out, new go in, plug&play. Outlander came with rim sizes starting at 16" , so no problem there. More info and size comparison in this thread : http://projectlancer.net/forums/topic/20498-evo-x-brakes/#comment-307681
  3. Rotors for Lancer 1.5L

    Go for cheaper and tested rout. Swapping front brake system for one from Outlander with 2.4 engine. : https://www.drive2.ru/l/4925493/ Later, if needed, better discs and pads can be installed, like EBC : https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/mitsubishi/outlander/2.4-2007-2010/8547# As You can see, EBC offer better rotors and pads for Outlander size in comparison to the ones in the link You provided for Lancer 1.5
  4. CVT Problem After Road Trip

    Same thing happened to me. When I switched from manual to cvt, as a habit I kept putting it in neutral at stoplights. Once I missed green light, slammed from neutral to D and at the same time hit the gas pedal. As a result got the same situation. At the next stoplight simply switched back to neutral and again to D to fix that glitch. That was 4 years back. Never had same glitch again or it causing any trouble to CVT afterwards. From what I know, after 2010, a newer version of CVT ECU were used with bigger ROM and overall more program lines present, which probably prevents that situation. Similar to glitch when sometimes check transmission error would pop on the dash for a day, after hard acceleration in fwd mode on the gravel.
  5. Keep getting P0133 code

    Hi! Another possibility of this code showing up, that Iv seen on some Lancers is damage to electric chain from O2 sensor to ECU . In most cases when O2 sensor is no longer earthed/ grounded. What You need is for electrician to test sensor contacts an if there is a problem, to trace the source. Usually there are 3 causes for this code: First one is bad fuel pump and/or clogged injectors, which is extremely rare and unlikely. Second is exhaust or intake manifold leak. Since You already checked exhaust for leaks, checking intake manifold would be recommended. And finally the most common, third cause, damage to O2 sensor or its electrical chain. Since You installed new sensor and problem persists, electrical chain from O2 sensor to ECU or from O2 sensor to pre-heater is most likely damaged.
  6. Increasing compression ratio

    Hi! Increasing compression on those engines are not very popular, since most serious Lancer moders plan to install turbo kits in future. As for ways, people increased compression on Lancers, two projects instantly comes in mind. One was in Russia, where 4B10 (1.8l) engine were fitted with different crankshaft, high compression pistons : https://a.d-cd.net/2db1f64s-960.jpg and thinner gasket, raising it to 2.3l and to 11.7 compression. Other one was 4B12 Lancer from Puerto Rico, with custom high compression pistons from cp :http://www.cp-carrillo.com/ raising compression to 11.5 I cant remember whether it had BC 272 or 280 cams, but definitely enough valve-piston clearance.
  7. Another think that can mess up idle like that and often gets overlooked is sticky EGR valve. Part Nr: 1582A166 I know of couple cases where EGR valve was damaged and caused bumpy idle and stalling. After removing it and deleting it in ECU, problem went away. If Your 4B12 engine is equipped with one, then cleaning it just in case would be good idea before moving forward in searching for a cause of Your problem.
  8. Engine/belt "whine"?

    The slight whining sound on 4B10/11/12 in most cases comes from alternator pulley. Couple years back there already was some posts about alternator recalls. (do not mistake with belt pulley tensioner recall) Here is picture of old style alternator pulley: https://a.d-cd.net/ebc1facs-960.jpg and the new one with installed alternator overrunning clutch pulley and protective cover : https://a.d-cd.net/51c1facs-960.jpg Older version alternator pulley gave out slight whining noise at around 1300 RPMs. If not replaced in time, led to more aggressive whine and clunking sound. In this video You can see the result : https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HCNiqsvVG0E Had same thing happen to me and got the new alternator from dealer. Recall campaign happened in the end of 2013, start of 2014, so if You have older car and never used that recall, it would be best to change that pulley. Even if your whining sound comes from somewhere else, getting upgraded pulley would be recommended anyway. Simply check if your alternator pulley comes with protective cover or not to quickly determine if it is new or old version. As for why 4B12 engines have constant low RPM whining noise ( similar to RPM range, but more louder than one described above) is due to those engines having balancing shafts and 4B10/11/11T are not equipped with them. Here they are in picture: http://razbormotorov.ru/product/балансировочные-валы-4b12/ Problem detecting that sound by mechanics is due to fact that if automotive oscilloscope is used, it would narrow the source of whine to the back of alternator, thus being a bit misleading. To be fair, balancing shafts themselves are not the actual whining sound source, besides it is known that there would not be any additional vibrations what so ever including no additional stress to engine components if they were not there. More than that, getting rid of them on 2.4L engine would free around 6 WHP thus increasing the hp gap from 4B11. BUT, for some unknown reason engineers integrated oil pump within balancing shaft system and that combination is the reason why there is constant whining sound at lower RPMs exclusively on 4B12. As for a proof , I already wrote in my latest post here: http://projectlancer.net/forums/topic/20711-some-lesser-known-lancer-tuning-parts-and-ideas/?page=2#comment-316122 about a case with problems from external oil radiator installation on 4B12 engine and how installing one would multiply the audible levels of that whine sound, thus showing correlation between oil pump system and whining sound levels. To my knowledge, there is no information on converting oil pump system to the way it is on 4B11, therefore allowing to ditch balancing shafts and gain power. Probably due to the solution being overly complicated and not cost effective. However, if someone knows about working 4B12 project with removed balancing shafts, please share the info.
  9. Bee R

    Bee R works well on track cars. Putting it on car with cats would cause them to fail quickly due to unburned fuel being dumped into exhaust. Many posts reporting those issues. This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uW6UKmHCYkk cant be healthy for a OEM cat.
  10. Muffler/Res delete "I know it has been answered"

    To summarize. If You just delete stock resonator and muffler ( straight pipe from cat till the end ), sound would definitely be too loud for everyday driving. Most popular solution is to simply getting aftermarket muffler. Plenty of videos with examples on how they sound. However, if You want the performance from your exhaust, there should be different approach. Stock headers have large hollow space inside where runners come together that slows down gas flow. Putting aftermarket headers would significantly increase speed of gases.Then the cat becomes a noticeable bottleneck and switching to better flowing one would yield the best performance. After that the bottleneck will switch to pipe that connects resonator and muffler, as it gradually get smaller inner diameter towards the rear muffler in order to make it more quiet ( at least that was the case on older year models ) To get the best performance, tube going out of the cat and till the end should be with 2.25 inch inner diameter ( Do not mistake with overall tube size, 2.25 inch 57mm should be from one inside wall to another inside wall ). At that point, resonators or mufflers, be it factory modified to fit larger tubes or aftermarket ones, will not impact performance in any way. For example I installed custom headers, sport cat that is coupled with custom resonator and muffler ( made as copy of OEM ones, but with stainless and 2.25 inch tubing inside. ) To understand how my OEM muffler looks like stock check here: https://www.drive2.com/l/9485407/ Now I have same, but from stainless steel and bigger tubes inside. Clearly not even close to straight trough style aftermarket design mufflers, however just looking at exit speed of exhaust gases from my exhaust ( see photo ) and that is on idle !! , clearly shows that there is no restrictions. BTW, if You have CVT version, Maybe my post that in detail describes exhaust I have, could be of interest to You. http://projectlancer.net/forums/topic/21438-my-24-cvt-low-end-power-exhaust-job-dyno/
  11. Muffler/Res delete "I know it has been answered"

    If You gonna put a turbo later on, then choose 2.5 inch tubing if not, then do not go past 2 1/4 inch. Bigger size than that will yield deeper sound due to slower gas pulses, but although will mess with bottom end torque. Instead go with 2 1/4 inch tubing, but dont go with standard exhaust tubes shops provide. Check for the industrial ones that have thicker walls. Thicker walls cut high frequency much better than larger diameter, plus You will get truly unique sound like no other. And there will be no need for resonator or muffler delete, since they would not slow down gases too much for such diameter piping.
  12. I had clunk noise coming from the back after installing BC coilovers. Turned out that rear coil springs were not enough for the rear weight of a car and I had to order another set of springs with higher compression rating. Easy to see if that is the case. Just push down on the front and on the trunk. If trunk moves up and down with much less force than front, You need stiffer coil springs or the ones You have will compress fully and hit the upper mounting over the bumps, creating clunk sounds. Other than that a rear sway bar bushing and end link condition would be most likely suspect, however seeing You have 2015 lancer, it would be unlikely for them to go out so quickly.
  13. Idle Air Control Valve Location?

    Iv seen such symptoms from vacuum leak where intake manifold connects to head. But if You say that vac leak check were done, then that is probably not the case. Another case of same problem was due to owner buying new, but wrong o2 sensor. Swapping sensors with another Lancer without same issue for a day would definitely clear things out in such case. And finally, in one case owner with same problem did a number of changes like You did. Changing injectors, coils, cleaning TB and so on.. Only to deciding later to check if o2 signal even reaching ECU. It is the same outcome whenever there is bad signal from o2 sensor or lack of it entirely. ECU will switch to "safe" parameters that seems like it is always on lean. ( middle position ~ 0.45V, whereas You need a variable from 0.1V to 0.9V ) In that particular case, owner found out that there were missing earth mass ( grounding ) connection, somewhere in that chain. So he soldered new ground connection in ETACS . Here is picture: http://forums.drom.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=6301298&d=1486988734 which immediately solved all problems.
  14. Whiteline BMR85XZ rear sway bar fits 07+ AWD outlander and Ralliart. I dont see a reason it would not fit AWD Lancer since it shares same AWD components. Simply write them a message about fitment.
  15. How to replace fuel filter in Lancer CJ

    I would recommended to change fuel filter at around 60k mile mark. From that video I gather that it was made in Malaysia. Sulphur Content in Malaysian gasoline ranges from 3 to 8 times that of US, therefore, overall fuel quality is much worse. Last year I went to mitsu service to change my fuel filter at 50k mile mark and they convinced me that based on what they saw during those swaps, filters are almost sterile under 60k. European gasoline and in particular Scandinavian that I use are good quality. US should be too.