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43 Jr. Contributor


About trancedrift

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  • Gender Male
  • Location NL
  • Car EDM 4B10T
  • ROTM March 2016

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  1. Overheat

    This is 4B12 engine with leaking head gasket on cylinder 1, photo from last weekend, gasket was leaking from as early as 110k miles, small leak only on high load and high temperature. No drop in power whatsoever, but exhaust gases in cooling system did push coolant out from radiator cap and expansion reservoir. The gasket was eventually changed, no head flattening or honing required, changed the distribution chain and tensioner as well and the car is back on the road with problem completely solved. The gasket was actually broken, i would almost dare to say that there was a fabrication defect/weakening, so don't underestimate that the gasket could be leaking although no all symptoms are there. Exhaust gas in coolant radiator is the biggest telltale.
  2. If it isn't the catalyst actually plugged. it sounds like the engine is miscalculating the air-fuel mix. The very first place you should be looking at is the MAF sensor. And with so many mechanics did somebody actually hook the car on a MUTIII interface and check the fuel trims, if they are maxed out in any direction? Even without checking the trims I would go for the MAF - cleaning of changing it, then check the intake for vacuum leaks.
  3. Removing rev limited

    Even with evo cams, valve springs, and turbo, the engines power output drops at 7K rpm. However the stock rev limiter is 6750, and with build engine you will be restricted to shifting around 6500... on the other hand if you engine and transmission is upgraded... well you would also have had a tune and the rev limiter is already adjusted. In other words, you never really start with the rev limiter I personally have Evo cams, BC valve springs, td04 turbo, boost control with grimmspeed 3port thus a stable 1 bar to 7k rpm with the 1.8 displacement, and light weight flywheel (important to mention as rpm really sky rocket at lower gears) and I tune myself for myself. My rpm limit is around 7500 rpm and I shift on the track around 7000 rpm. And the car makes roughly 300pk on the crank at 7000, or around 250whp on dyno.
  4. HELP: Steering problems!?

    I have to agree, in shop, with a professional, with the car jacked up you see much more than just guessing. As I have changed litterally all suspension components on my Lancer as part of making it suited for road-track racing, I have experienced various issues - Tracking on bumps - light increase with wider 245+ tires, very heavy increase with increased negative camber and caster angles - I used to drive with -4 static camber and 4.5+ caster and it was still very doable, you just always need to hold the wheel very thight , and finally very very heavy increase with any combination of mismatching toe -in or-out, like dangerously a lot of tracking in combination with the large negative camber to the point that the car would jump a full meter to the side after hitting a puddle of water and pothole on the road. I had to do it once shortly after changing tie rods alone and then driving to the shop for alignment. - Floating feeling at higher speeds - generally something associated with soft shocks, tired springs, and worn out suspension components. Although it is quite possible that both issues are realted. I was trying out my tie rods and ball joint, none of them showed any movement while on the car. I still changed both ball joints and both tie rods, just to be sure, and the old pars were totally moving free and loose after removed. Also the old shocks when I put the coil overs were so bad, I could push them in and out with one finger. They were on less than 100 000 miles. I still think that you have to start with the height mismatch, you should not have such with stock suspension. It could be from either blown shock strut, broken spring, loose sway bar, but also from having something bent after hitting a pot hole with high speed. That one would be more hard to diagnose and cure.
  5. HELP: Steering problems!?

    I think it is quite clear where the issues start. I would guess that one of your shocks has blown with the crash. Heavy steering, trailing over bumps and potholes comes after the tires are no longer aligned with each other and/or have too much toe out/in and camber. Using wide tires (245) also doesn't help. Floating feeling is more related to blown shocks, and loose tie rods or even lower arms, although the last would be more like pulling to one side rather than random floating. By the way, another reason could be that your tires are under inflated.
  6. Overheat

    How exactly is it overheating, in particular - how is the fluid level in the expansion tank? Does the car push coolant out of the pressure cap on the radiator to the expansion tank, which then overflows untill enough coolant is lost? Because in this case I would recommend checking the radiator for exhaust gases, there are some easy tools for that that react to carbon monoxide fumes by changing color. If you confirm exhaust gas leak into the cooling system you can go back to the headgasket, or maybe EGR valve leak - it also has coolant passages.
  7. My Lancer Race Toy

    So, the next round I did take the first place. In general the car felt good but the stock RA wastegate started acting up again limiting the boost to 0.6 bar (stuck open) I did also quite some autobahn kilometers recently and decided I need to change the alignment, namely fix the toe out and reduce the front camber a little as the car is trying to kill me on wet asphalt although on dry asphalt I am racing BMW M3's and Porsches with 240-260 kmh and I am getting them in the corners
  8. Engine/belt "whine"?

    It's the chain or chain tensioners, in rare cases the mivec solenoids. From what I have seen, it is a much more pronounced issue with the 4B12 engine rather than any of the other in the 4B family I have it on my 4B12 Outlander but almost not audible on the 4B10 boosted Lancer. The Lancer has the chain changed when I boosted it 3-4 years ago and that didn't change the sound, but we left the tensioners and guides, and oil pump chain unchanged But on the Outlander the whine is almost louder that the other engine noises, definately inside the car. I have run the engine with accessroy serpentine belt removed to test it, and the noise was still there, so it is not the belt, and not the injectors.
  9. It looks to me that you are dropping turbo pressure quite rapidly after 5000 rpm, so you torque drops like a stone. The max power should be way past 6500 rpm with Evo cams, so the only reason would be if you are not holding pressure right. What wastegate pressure rating do you have, stock RA? And what do you use for boost control? I was peaking at 6250rpm in the beginning because the manual boost control was a bitch to tune around, the only safe way was to let it leak pressure at high rpm. I even tried using two manual boost controllers in a row, didn't help much. Now I run 3-port from Grimmspeed and let the ecu controll it, and just tune the WGDC tables in the rom, with barometric and temperature correction on the fly. Result is 13 psi flat from 3000 rpm to 7500 rpm, and almost 300hp on the crank around 7000 rpm. And this is from the 1.8 4B10 version of the enigne. By the way, at some point after two years of track days the original wastegate started to leak pressure badly, but I just tightened it to the absolute maximum, and it is still holding ok.
  10. My Lancer Race Toy

    I've been quiet recently but the car is still going strong. This year I am participating in the Club class of the Dutch time attack championship. It is the starting class for cars with engines from the same model, no major aero, and predominantly road legal (although the serious competition was Civics stripped to bare metal with non-turbo heavily modified enignes). I did manage to get second place after finishing with fastest times in both qualification and final, but getting time penalty as the Club category has a target lowest lap times allowed. I drove with Federal 595 RS-R tires which are definitely worse than anything else track oriented that I have had but they are... cheap. On Zandvoort I had to keep the pace down, or at least not go to the complete limit in order to stay close to the target time, but the next round is next month and on TT Assen (the Moto GP track) where I will have to go all the way to be close to the target time. It is going to be fun!
  11. My Lancer Race Toy

    Everything fits easily, there isn't much space to work around the unit though, so you have to be patient. You should also try to not to let air go into the clutch feed line, although bleeding the clutch to get fresh brake fluid there is not a bad idea. By the way, make sure the master brake cylinder comes with tank and comes from a GSR, the MR one doesn't have a ready fitting for the clutch line. I had to make one for mine.
  12. My Lancer Race Toy

    Hi, The master brake cylinder from Evo X requires also the vacuum booster from an Evo. You have to change both as the coupling if different. Also the Evo cylinder is Bosch and the Lancer one is Ate. I am really happy with this swap, the pedal feel is absolutely improved, short but powerful. The next mode on the brake system I will be doing this summer is removing the whole ABS/EBD pump unit and changing it with two simple proportioning valves. The pump isn't working and even when it's working it is costing me a couple seconds per lap due to poorer braking. I've been quiet the last couple of month as I haven't done much on the car, I took a little time off the track to have some time for myself - more vacations and stuff. Also all the track days this year so far have been rainy or even with snow so there haven't been much to do. Plans remain further stripping the car, putting race seats and harnesses, and 4 or 6 point cage. Battery should move inside and hood and boot lid need to become lighter. In the meanwhile I re-purposed my daily wheels for my daily Outlander, I put some 255/55R18 tires on the 18x9.5 +26 wheels and I really like the result. The Outlander look definitely more aggressive this way.
  13. Good job Don't forget to take care of oil cooling as well! Tephra mod on the rom is almost obligatory as well with knock warning.
  14. New Lancer Model Thread (Rumours, Speculation, Etc.)

    I am thinking more in the direction of 110 and 107 kW seems more realistic And regarding a new Lancer model - well they were planning a new one on the Renault Megane platform, however I read recently that Nissan executive has said that they want to revive the Evo but on a X-trail / Kadjar platform. It is a light SUV platform, but the X was also sharing platform with Outlander anyways so something good can come out of this.
  15. Replacing the chain

    I woudn't bother with the chain, it is a PITA and costs a lot. If you keep the engine cool and with good oil it is not going to be an issue. I changed mine because of the turbo. If you are going to be removing the head - yes ofc change the chain and check the chain tensioners but otherwise it is obsolete.